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Shoe uppers and soles design




TEXT B

TEXT A

UNIT XV

Text C

VI. Render the text in brief in a written form.

III. Make up a plan of the text.

IV. Translate the paragraph in italics in a written form.

V. Questions for discussion:

1. What was the starting point for the future development of shoe sewing machines?

2. What were the barriers to applying the sewing machine to shoemaking?

3. What aspects were decisive for shoe machine invention?

4. Who designed the first successful leather-stitching machine?

5. Who invented the first sewing machine?

6. How did Nichkols adapt Singer’s machine to shoe stitching?

7. What was Singer’s reaction to Nichols’s efforts?

8. What thread had to be used for heavier leathers?

9. What did William Wickersham introduce in 1853? How did his invention work?

10. What was significant about the machine introduced by Wickersham?

I. Mind the following words and word-combinations:

  1. leather-dressing machine – машина для обробки шкіри
  2. defurring – видалення волосся, гоління
  3. turn-of-the-century – початок 20 століття
  4. to perfect – вдосконалювати, покращувати
  5. facility – обладнання
  6. pasting – проклейка
  7. pricking – проколювання
  8. “dart” needle – голка для зметування
  9. sole-laying machine – машина для кріплення підошви

II. Listen to the text “MOTHERS OF INVENTION” and decide if the statements are true or false:

  1. In 1884 Cecile Puech of Mazamet received a US patent for a leather-dressing machine.
  2. The Literary Digest’s turn-of-the-century article “Women as Inventors” said about Cecile Puech as “a woman who has just perfected a valuable apparatus for removing wool from skins by electricity, showing that women are quick to adapt the modern facilities of the age to practical purpose…”
  3. Women are rarely connected with footwear industry.
  4. Mary A. C. Holmes patented three improvements in machines for channeling and pricking the soles of boots and shoes.
  5. Margaret Knight invented at least 14 sole-cutting machines.

III. Listen to the text again and be ready to answer the questions:

1. What women in shoemaking have you heard about?

2. What was said in the Literary Digest’s turn-of-the-century article “Women as Inventors”? Who was the article about?

CAD\CAM IN FOOTWEAR MANUFACTURE

I. Read and remember the words and their translation:

  1. to design – конструювати
  2. to grade – сортувати
  3. logo – логотип, фірмова символіка
  4. to reinforce – підкріплювати, підсилювати
  5. to brand – клеймувати
  6. to reduce – скорочувати
  7. to scan – сканувати
  8. enormously – дуже
  9. a sketch – креслення
  10. to eliminate –усувати, виключати

 

II. Read and remember the following phrases:

  1. CAD (computer aided design) – автоматизоване проектування (САПР)
  2. CAM (computer aided manufacturing) – автоматизоване виробництво
  3. to be introduced – (тут) бути використаним
  4. to be incorporated into – бути поєднаним в
  5. routine procedures – стандартні процеси
  6. to cut time – скорочувати час
  7. a designer’s creativity – творчість конструктора
  8. highly accurate calculations – високоточні обчислювання
  9. a detailed documentation – докладна документація
  10. an effective staff training –ефективна підготовка персоналу

III. Read and translate the following text:

CAD/CAM in Footwear Manufacture

Computer aided design in footwear manufactureCAD/CAM in the footwear industry is the use of computers and graphics software for designing and grading of shoe upper patterns and, for manufacturing of cutting dies, shoe lasts and sole moulds. CAD/CAM software is a PC-based system, which is made up of program modules. Today, there are 2D and 3D versions of CAD/CAM systems in the shoe industry.

Computer aided design was introduced in the shoe industry in 1970s. Initially it was used primarily for pattern grading. It enabled manufacturers to perform complex grading relatively easily and quickly. CAD systems today have been developed with a much wider range of functions. Logos, textures and other decorations can be incorporated into product designs of both the uppers and soles to help reinforce branding on all areas of the model. It automates routine procedures, increasing speed and consistency whilst reducing the possibility of mistakes. CAD data can now be used effectively for a wide variety of activities across footwear manufacturing business. CAD/CAM generates data at the design stage, which can be used right through the planning and manufacturing stages.

CAD/CAM software is able to create last data from solid lasts by scanning, create 3D shoe designs to advertising quality, create 2D pattern data, (optionally from 3D design), get real time pattern samples (in 2D or 3D), create manufacturing documentation, get analytical costing information for graded parts. Due to latest improvements in the CAD/CAM technology graphic capabilities and interconnectivity have improved enormously; software developments have progressively made systems more intuitive and easier to use; with 2D sketch and paint modules, a serviceable sketch can be produced and then colour and texture can be added; 3D systems enable the last and design to be viewed from any perspective and several angles even simultaneously.

With CAD/CAM software, footwear manufacturers can cut their time to market dramatically and so increase market share and profitability. In addition, the power and flexibility of the software can overcome restrictions to the designer's creativity imposed by traditional methods.

Most systems can import and export various graphics data formats enabling further data processing by other CAD systems or database programs.

Using the graphics data generated materials database stored, the CAD software car perform instant and highly accurate calculations for material consumption and product cost of the shoe, eliminating grueling and time-consuming work. It helps also introduction of detailed documentation and supports effective staff training.

 

IV. Answer the questions:

  1. What is CAD/CAM used for in the footwear industry?
  2. What variations of CAD/CAM systems are there in the shoe industry?
  3. When was CAD introduced in the footwear industry?
  4. 4 What did CAD systems utilization enable manufacturers to do in 1970s?
  5. What functions have modern CAD systems been developed with?
  6. Does it automate only special procedures?
  7. At what stage does CAD/CAM generate data?
  8. What is CAD/CAM software able to create?
  9. What are the advantages of CAD/CAM software improvement for footwear manufacturers?
  10. It doesn’t help introduction of detailed information, does it?

 

V. Complete the sentences with the words from the text:

  1. CAD was … in the footwear industry in 1970s.
  2. … can be incorporated into product design.
  3. It automates … increasing speed.
  4. Due to latest improvements in … graphic capabilities and interconnecting have improved enormously.
  5. The CAD software can perform … for material consumption and product cost of the footwear.

 

VI. Find the English equivalents to the words:

підошва, копил, послідовність (узгодженість), зразок, лекало, удосконалення, програмне забезпечення, колір, виробники взуття, обмеження, прибутковість

 

VII. Make up sentences with the terms:

CAD/CAM software, complex grading, product design, routine procedures, to reduce, latest improvements, material consumption

 

VIII. Give definitions to the words:

CAD, CAM, design, grading, sketch, footwear manufacturer, profitability

 

IX. Translate the sentences into English:

  1. На підприємствах взуттєвого виробництва зараз використовують двох та трьох вимірні версії систем автоматизованого проектування.
  2. САПР почали використовувати у виробництві взуття з 1970-х років.
  3. Ця система робила процес складного сортування легким та швидким.
  4. Сучасні системи автоматизованого проектування розроблено для виконання більшої кількості функцій.
  5. Системи роблять стандартні процеси автоматизованими, що підвищує швидкість та послідовність, уникаючи помилок.
  6. САПР надає данні та стадії конструювання, які можуть бути використані в процесі планування та виробництва.
  7. Завдяки новітнім удосконаленням програм стало легше використовувати системи.
  8. Трьох вимірні системи надають зображення копила та конструкції під різними кутами.
  9. За допомогою САПР виробники скорочують час та отримують прибуток.
  10. Гнучкість програмного забезпечення сприяє творчості конструктора.

 

X. Speak on the topic using the following words and word-combinations:

the use of computers and graphics software, designing and grading, 2D and 3D versions, to be introduced, a wide range of functions, routine procedures, to reduce mistakes, the latest improvements, to cut time, to increase profitability, material consumption, product cost

 

 

I. Read and remember:

  1. a digitalization –перетворення у цифрову форму
  2. to edit – коригувати
  3. to input – вводити дані
  4. a scanning device – пристрій для сканування
  5. a cutting die – прес для вирубування
  6. a circumference – коло
  7. a demand – попит
  8. a competitor – конкурент
  9. a shoe sole mould – формована підошва
  10. a capability –здібність

 

II. Read the text and define the main idea of it:

 

CAD in 2D is realized by digitization of the model basic lines with the help of digitizer tablet cursor or mouse. The designer creates then individual upper patterns interactively on screen using a number of special functions for effective work at all stages. Patterns can be also edited and combined with already designed parts.

Measurement of distances, lengths and areas etc. can be done very accurate and easily. To design in 3D, the shoe last geometry data has to be input first by a special scanning device. The upper pattern can then be sketched on the image of the last on monitor. The software module flattens the 3D parts in 2D for further use. The patterns, a complete documentation for shoe design and models for cutting die production, can be cut on cardboard directly with a table cutter connected to the CAD workstation.

Shoe upper patterns need to be graded for the whole scale of the assortment of the required shoe sizes, which can be French, English or American sizing. Individual parts are graded instantaneously, which enables the designer to check the graded parts on the monitor. If any discrepancies are found, the designer can change the grading specifications immediately and re-grade the parts in no time.

Cutting dies made of steel are used in the shoe production to cut uppers from leather, textile or synthetics. Some CAD systems offer modules, which enable long-distance transfer of data for shoe production preparation via modem or the Internet. The graphics data of patterns designed can then be transmitted easily to the die producer. The system calculates also the circumference of the die, which is the key factor of the die cost.

Automated cutting machines are widely used today in the footwear industry to cut uppers from leather, when die costs are relatively high for samples or low quantity styles. Computerized cutting systems use graphics data output of CAD systems as input.

CAD/CAM software can be used to generate machining data for shoe sole models and moulds. Shoe sole mould makers are able to strengthen their capabilities of mould design and production techniques to meet the market demands for shorter product life cycle, quality improvement and handling versatile pattern design. This helps especially sports shoe producers to manufacture products rapidly and to introduce them earlier than their competitors.

3D CAD/CAM is the core technology for shoe sole mould in the footwear industry and develops towards specialization.

Benefits of CAD/CAM in the mould manufacturing are total modeling for rapid generation of design concepts and variations, reverse engineering from existing models or parts, easy design modification and morphing capability, completely accurate designs regardless of complexity, group grading of soles and uppers, advanced decorating techniques, realistic onscreen visualization, rapid generation of molds from product designs.

 




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