Shoe-making machines

TEXT A

THE GENESIS OF SHOE MACHINERY

UNIT XIV

TEXT C

IV. Translate the paragraph in italics in a written form.

V. Questions for discussion:

1. What equipment is used for control and communication with the animal?
2. What does a halter or headcollar consist of?
3. How long is a lead rope?
4. How does a halter look like?
5. What is underhalter?
6. What is a bit attached to?
7. Is there any difference between English and Western bridles?
8. What allows a rider to have very precise control of a horse?
9. What keeps the saddle from sliding back or sideways?
10. Where can one see double bridles and breastplates?

I. Mind the following words and word-combinations:

1. to prevent from pinching – запобігати прищипуванню
2. a sturdy toe – жорсткий носок
3. a distinct heel – особливий каблук
4. well-worn boots – зносостійкі чоботи, чоботи, які довго носяться
5. patent leather – лакована шкіра

II. Listen to the text ‘RIDING BOOTS’ and decide if the statements are true or false:

1. Riding boots are used for dancing.
2. The classic boot comes high enough up the leg.
3. The modern boot is high-heeled with a heel of more than five inch.
4. English riding boots are made of smooth leather, usually cowhide or occasionally pigskin.
5. For casual riding riders often wear tennis shoes.

III. Listen to the text again and be ready to answer the questions:

1. What are riding boots? How do they look like?
2. Does the modern riding boot differ from classic one?

I. Read and remember the words and their translation:

1. consistent – відповідний
2. heelpiece – каблук, набойка
3. toe cap – підносок, носок
4. shrinkage – усадка, зтягування, зморщування
5. stitching – зшивання, строчка
6. harness – попруга, збруя, ремені безпеки
7. arm – ричаг (для підйому прижимної лапки)
8. feeding – рушати (матеріал)
9. seam – шов
10. wedge – клин

II. Read and remember the following phrases:

1. high-speed wheel – високошвидкісна головка
2. electricity heating device – електронагрівальний прилад
3. bobbin winder – станок для каркасної намотки катушок
4. shuttle hook – челнок, що коливається
5. reverse stitch – зворотній стібок
6. sponge rubber sheeting – лист пористої гуми
7. slide carriage – рамний лафет
8. lockstitch – машинний шов, що не розпускається, закритий стібок
9. wrench – гайковий ключ
10. lever – ричаг

III. Read and translate the following text:

Finding the right piece of equipment is essential to producing consistent and high quality product. There is a great variety of machines used in footwear manufacturing. Each of the machines is intended to perform a set of specific operations. Some shoe-making machines are suitable for massaging upper and vamp of leather shoes and sneakers. Such machines generally have high-speed wheel for tightening and massaging head to massage heelpiece, upper, vamp, toe cap, and shoe mouth lines in order to remove away shrinkage. They are supplied with electricity heating device. Some machines are suitable for stitching all extra heavy-weight materials, such as saddles, harness, sofa, safety belts, tents, seats, and bags etc. They can have an arm length of 16.5 inches. They have an outstanding capability in feeding multi-layers of heavy materials due to compound feed system. The sewing area of machines of that type is up to 420mm, suitable for stitching very large articles. The presser foot lift is up to 23mm for smooth placement/removal of extra heavy materials. The bobbin winder is usually built-in onto the machine and provides convenient operation. Extra large capacity bobbin and shuttle hook eliminates the need to change bobbins often. This increases sewing efficiency when using the machine. It is possible to produce a reverse stitch for tying stitches when you start and stop or for any reinforcement in your project. Other optional attachments are also available for special demands. Modern day shoe-sewing machines are able to produce an excellent seam appearance.

There are sewing machines for leather, leather machines for cutting, skiving, splitting, machines for finishing, sanding & polishing, etc.

For example, arch-cushion-skiving machine is a machine intended to cut arch cushions from sponge rubber sheeting for rubber footwear. Deskidding machine cuts wavy or zigzag designs in outsoles for rubber footwear to provide nonskid surface. Thus, the sole is positioned on slide carriage under blade and between spring clamps that hold ends of sole to carriage. When machine is started, the lever is moved to depress cutter that automatically cuts single row to set depth in vertical reciprocating action. The lever is moved to raise cutter by depressing pedal to return carriage to starting position, the process is repeated to cut additional rows. Then the clamps are released to replace finished workpiece. An operator examines depth of cut, using mold mark on sole edge as guide, and raises or lowers blade, using wrench to adjust depth.

It is necessary to mention that the most modern equipment includes, among other things: a 3D body scanner for contactless body measurements, a system for designing and computerised construction of garments, automata for drawing and cutting garment parts and layers, systems for joining fabrics by means of ultrasound and hot wedge, a computer-controlled robot with pneumatic clamp for transport of workpieces, numerically controlled sewing automata and a system for designing and manufacture of embroideries on all types of materials.

Present day sewing machines can make an excellent variety of plain or patterned stitches. They include means for gripping, supporting, and conveying the material past the sewing needle to form the stitch pattern. Most home sewing machines, and some industrial machines, use a two thread stitch called the lockstitch. Most industrial machines use an overlock stitch produced by a machine sometimes referred to as a serger. Some older machines produce a chain stitch. The material easily glides in and out of the machine without the hassle of needles and unessesary tools used in hand sewing. It was made by Isaac Singer.

All shoe-making machines are characterized by their capability i. e. quantity of pairs per hour or 8 hours (a general working day). An average shoe-making machine’s capability is 2000 pairs of footwear per 8 hours.

IV. Answer the questions:

1. What shoe-making machines do you know?

2. What special purposes are shoe-making machines for? Give examples.

3. What specifications do machines for stiching extra-heavy weight materials have?

4. What is deskidding machine intended for?

5. How does deskidding machine work?

6. What does the most modern equipment include?

7. What means make possible great variety of stitches?

8. What is used in most industrial machines?

9. What are all modern shoe-making machines characterized by?

10. What is an average shoe-making machine’s capability?

V. Complete the sentences with the words from the text:

stitch, shrinkage, bobbins, wrench, extra heavy-weight, lockstitch, capability, gripping, shuttle hook, two, measurements, outsoles, wheel, serger

1. An overlock stitch produced by industial machine is sometimes referred to as a ….
2. Deskidding machine cuts wavy or zigzag designs in... for rubber footwear.
3. ... is quantity of pairs per hour or 8 hours (a general working day).
4. A 3D body scanner is used for contactless body....
5. Some machines have high-speed... for tightening and massaging head in order to remove away....
6. Extra large capacity bobbin and... eliminates the need to change... often.
7. Most home sewing machines use a … thread stitch called the ….
8. To adjust depth of cut... is used.
9. Present day sewing machines include means for …, supporting, and conveying the material past the sewing needle to form the … pattern.
10. Saddles, harness, sofa, safety belts, tents, seats, and bags are generally reffered to as materials.

VI. Find the English equivalents to the words:

підйом прижимної лапки, набойка, двоєння, пружинний зажим, вирівнювання деталей взуття, вкладиши для супінаторів, електронагрівальний прилад, рамний лафет, зморщування, набойка, зворотній стібок, регулювати, закріплення, перешкода, продуктивність

VII. Make up sentences with the terms:

massaging upper and vamp, heelpiece, toe cap, electricity heating device, harness, outstanding capability, extra heavy materials, tying, zigzag designs, lever, 3D body scanner, mold mark, embroidery, capability, ultrasound, stitch, pattern

VIII. Give definitions to the words:

vamp, toe cap, shrinkage, electricity heating device, extra heavy-weight materials, saddle, harness, shuttle hook, reverse stitch, reinforcement, arch-cushion-skiving machine, deskidding machine, 3D body scanner, lockstitch, capability

IX. Translate the sentences into English:

1. Кожна машина призначена для виконання ряду специфічних операцій.

2. Підйом прижимної лапки дозволяє зшивати товсті матеріали.

3. Сучасні швейні машинки можуть робити чудові міцні шви.

4. Можливо зробити зворотній стібок для закріплення швів або підсилення конструкції.

5. Щоб забрати готову річ, зажими відпускаються.

6. Підошва гумового взуття маю хвилястий або зигзагоподібний малюнок, щоб запобігти ковзанню.

7. Більшість машинок використовують подвійну нитку, щоб утворити шов, який не розпускається.

8. Щоб регулювати глибину вирізу, оператор піднімає або опускає лезо за допомогою гайкового ключа.

9. Підошва закріплюється між пружинними зажимами на рамному лафеті під лезом.

10. Вкладиши для супінаторів вирізають з листкової пористої гуми.

X. Speak on the topic using the following words and word-combinations:

high quality product, great variety of machines, a set of specific operations, supplied with, home sewing machines, industrial machines, machines for massaging upper and vamp, machines are suitable for stitching all extra heavy-weight materials, sewing machines for leather, leather machines for cutting, skiving, splitting, machines for finishing, sanding & polishing, arch-cushion-skiving machine, deskidding machine, the most modern equipment, variety of stitches, capability

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