Forms of leather

TEXT B

LEATHER

TEXT A

LEATHER AND ITS PREPARATION

UNIT 6

TEXT C

VI. Render the text in brief in a written form.

III. Make up a plan of the text.

IV. Translate the paragraph in italics in a written form.

V. Questions for discussion:

1. What can increase strength and abrasion resistance of woven materials?

2. What materials can be used as the base cloth?

3. What fabrics are ideal for slippers?

4. What is а disadvantage of PVCCFs?

5. What is an alternative to PVC?

6. What are the two ways of applying PU coating?

7. What effect does coating give to the fabric?

8. What exceptions make coated fabrics different from leather?

9. What are the characteristics of coated fabrics?

10. What are PUCFs rarely good for?

I. Mind the following words and word-combinations:

1. to disturb – порушувати

2. resistance – стійкість

3. abrasive wear – зношування від стирання

4. penetration – проникнення

5. adaptability – пристосування

6. suitability – відповідність

7. circumstance – обставина

8. stout dense leather – міцна тісна шкіра

II. Listen to the text ‘SOLING MATERIALS’ and decide if the statements are true or false:

1. The life of a shoe doesn’t depend on the life of the sole.

2. Lightness in weight is not considered the essential quality for a good soling material.

3. Thin leather possesses all of the qualities necessary for a good outsole in full measure.

4. The suitability of a particular material depends on the purpose of wearing.

5. Soling materials for slippers and miners’ boots are of almost opposite qualities.

III. Listen to the text again and be ready to answer the questions:

1. What are the essential qualities required for a good soling material?

2. What does the suitability of a particular material depend on?

I. Read and remember the words and their translation:

1. a skin – шкура (маленьких тварин)

2. tanning – дублення

3. a hide – шкура (великих тварин)

4. a putrescence – гниття

5. by-product – один з продуктів

6. a fur – хутро

7. taxidermy – набивання чучела

8. fibrous – волокнистий

9. perspiration - потовиділення

10. gauge – вимір

II. Read and remember the following phrases:

1. to have a life of its own – бути живого походження

2. to retain a shape – зберігати форму

3. to improve with age – з часом ставати краще

4. to preserve a skin – зберігати шкуру

5. to have higher value – мати більшу цінність

6. a shoe trade – виробництво взуття

7. pin-wheel – цевочне колесо

8. an unit of measurement – одиниця виміру

9. to state the thickness in … – визначення товщини у …

10. to be carried out – виконуватись

III. Read and translate the following text:

Leather is a natural product. Like real wood and wool it has a life of its own with a distinctive quality look. Leather is both protective and uniquely comfortable. Leather shoes retain their shape and grow old gracefully. Properly maintained, like good wine, they improve with age.

Leather is made from the skins of any animal or bird by a process called tanning. This process preserves the skin or hide, which would otherwise decay. The tanning process converts the skin able to putrefy into a durable, long-lasting and versatile natural material for various uses.

Leather is an important material with many uses. Together with wood, leather formed the basis of much ancient technology. The leather industry and the fur industry are distinct industries that are differentiated by the importance of their raw materials. In the leather industry the raw materials are by-products of the meat industry, with the meat having higher value than the skin. The fur industry uses raw materials that are higher in value than the meat and hence the meat is classified as a by-product. Taxidermy also makes use of the skin of animals, but generally the head and part of the back are used. Hides and skins are also used in the manufacture of glue and gelatin.

The most important characteristic of leather as far as the shoe trade is concerned is that it has fibrous structure, which allows it to transmit water vapour (i. e. perspiration). Leather breathes and controls the foot's temperature, permeating out the foot's moisture.

The leather industry normally refers to a hide as coming from a large animal (such as a cow, elephant, buffalo) and it is necessary to cut and divide a hide in order to assist subsequent processing. A skin can come from four sources:

• Small or young animals (e. g. calf, sheep, goat, pig)

• Reptiles (e. g. snake, crocodile, lizard)

• Animals or mammals, where the hair is left on as a feature, such as calf, pony reindeer, or antelope.

• Birds (such as ostrich)

The vast majority of leather is sold according to its area. The leather is placed through pin-wheel or electronic measuring machines and its surface area is determined. The unit of measurement is square metre, square decimetre or square foot. The thickness is also important, and this is measured using a thickness gauge (the unit of measurement is millimetres, e.g., 1.8 mm is a standard thickness for a school shoe).

In some parts of the world top-grain thicknesses are described using weight units of ounces. Although the statement is in ounces only, it is an abbreviation of ounces persquare foot. The thickness value can be obtained by the conversion:

1 oz/ft² = 1/64 inch (0.4 mm)

Hence, leather described as 7 to 8 oz is 7/64 to 8/64 inches (2.8 to 3.2 mm) thick. The weight is usually given as a range because the inherent variability of the material makes ensuring a precise thickness very difficult. Other leather manufacturers state the thickness directly in millimetres.

Leather manufacture is carried out in two stages:

• The preparation and tanning of the hides and skins.

• The process of leather finishing.

IV. Answer the questions:

1. What kind of product is leather?

2. Why is the tanning process used?

3. Why is leather an important material with many uses?

4. Why do we say that the leather and fur industries are distinct ones?

5. What is the most important characteristic of leather?

6. What animals are hides coming from?

7. What animals and birds are skins coming from?

8. What is the vast majority of leather sold according?

9. What is the method to determine the surface area of leather? What is the unit of measurement?

10. In what two stages is leather manufacture carried out?

V. Complete the sentences with the words from the text:

1. … is a natural product.

2. Leather is both … and uniquely comfortable.

3. Leather is made from the … of animal or bird.

4. … and skins are also used in the manufacture of glue and gelatin.

5. Leather controls the foot’ temperature, permeating out foot’s ….

VI. Find the English equivalents to the words:

характерний, вироблений відповідним чином, зберігати, перетворювати, зносостійкий, окремий, сировина, дихати, подальший, вимірювання

VII. Make up sentences with the terms:

uniquely comfortable, long-lasting and versatile material, ancient technology, distinct industries, raw materials, by-product, taxidermy, the shoe trade, the foot’s temperature, a thickness gauge

VIII. Give definitions to the words:

natural product, a skin, a hide, tanning, taxidermy, water vapour, the shoe trade, raw materials, a manufacture, a gauge

X. Translate the sentences into English:

1. Шкіра виробляється із шкур різних тварин та птиці.

2. Процес дублення перетворює шкури в міцний, різноманітний матеріал для використання в різних цілях.

3. Деревина та шкіра складали основу більшості давніх технологій виготовлення взуття.

4. Шкіряну та хутряну промисловості розрізняють за важливістю їх сировини.

5. В тексодермії також використовують шкури тварин, але тільки голови та частини спини.

6. Найважливішою характеристикою шкіри для взуттєвої промисловості є те, що вона має волокнисту структуру.

7. Шкіра дихає та контролює температуру стопи та її вологість.

8. Одиницею вимірювання шкіри є квадратний метр, квадратний дециметр та квадратний фут.

9. Деякі виробники шкіри позначають товщину у міліметрах.

10. Виробництво шкіри проходить в два етапи: підготовка та дублення шкури та обробка шкіри.

X. Speak on the topic using the following words and word-combination:

a natural product, to be protective and uniquely comfortable, tanning, to preserve skins and hides, important material with many uses, leather industry, fur industry, the raw materials are by-products, to have fibrous structure, to breath and control temperature, large animals, small or young animals, to be placed through pin-wheel or electronic measuring machines, surface area, thickness gauge, to be carried out in two stages, the process of finishing

I. Read and remember:

1. supple – гнучкий, піддатливий

2. to be stable – бути стійким

3. to soak – змочування

4. to be pliable – бути поступливим

5. cod oil – трісковий жир

6. binders – зв’язувальні речовини (клей, тощо)

7. shade – відтінок

8. rawhide – сиром’ятна шкура

9. brittle – крихкий, ламкий

10. neat’s-foot oil – копитний жир

II. Read the text and define the main idea:

There is a number of processes whereby the skin of an animal can be formed into a supple, strong material commonly called leather.

Vegetable-tanned leather is tanned using tannin (hence the name "tanning") and other ingredients found in vegetable matter, tree bark, and other such sources. It is supple and brown in colour, with the exact shade depending on the mix of chemicals and the colour of the skin. Vegetable-tanned leather is not stable in water; it tends to discolour, and if left to soak and then dry it will shrink and become less supple and harder. Historically, it was occasionally used as armour after hardening, and it has also been used for book binding.

Chrome-tanned leather, invented in 1858, is more supple and pliable than vegetable-tanned leather, and does not discolour or lose shape as drastically in water as vegetable-tanned. It is also known as wet-blue for its colour derived from the chromium. More esoteric colours are possible using chrome tanning.

Aldehyde-tanned leather is the leather that most tanners refer to as wet-white leather due to its pale cream or white colour. It is the main type of leather used in chrome-free leather often seen in infant's shoes and in automobiles that prefer chrome-free leather.

Synthetic-tanned leather is tanned using aromatic polymers. This leather is white in colour and was invented when vegetable tannins were in short supply, i.e. during the Second World War.

Alum-tanned leather is tanned using aluminium salts mixed with a variety of binders and protein sources, such as flour, egg yolk, etc. Very light shades of leather are possible using this process, but the resulting material is not as supple as vegetable-tanned leather.

Rawhide is made by scraping the skin thin, soaking it in lime, and then stretching it while it dries. Rawhide is stiffer and more brittle than other forms of leather, and is primarily found in uses such as drum heads where it does not need to flex significantly; it is also cut up into cords for use in lacing or stitching, or for making many varieties of dog chews.

Leather – usually vegetable-tanned leather – can be oiled to improve its water resistance. This supplements the natural oils remaining in the leather itself, which can be washed out through repeated exposure to water. Frequent oiling of leather, with mink oil, neat’s-foot oil or a similar material, keeps it supple and improves its lifespan dramatically.

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